Guangzhou - the Pearl of China

Guangzhou - the pearl of China

As I was growing up in India, in my school text books, the only things I learnt about China, were that they have farmers who work hard in the fields to grow lot of rice while wearing their pointy wooden hats, that they drink lot of tea, eat really fast with their chopsticks, and that a Chinese scholar called Hsuan Tsang, had come down to India during the 6th century to visit the ancient university of Nalanda. That image of China is so inadequate and antiquated…

Today, if you visit Beijing, she offers an explicit message about China’s strategic importance (http://sachinrkulkarni.blogspot.com/2014/02/beijing.html). Shanghai displays China’s economic and infrastructural progress epitomized by the ever changing skyline of Pudong. (http://sachinrkulkarni.blogspot.com/2014/03/the-smart-city-of-shanghai.html). However, if you care to look behind the façade of the modern infrastructure to try and understand real China, and its culture, with all the vibrant customs and traditions of one of the world’s most ancient civilizations, I would recommend you a visit to Guangzhou, in south east China.

Guangzhou is China’s 3^rd largest city with a population exceeding 15 million. It’s a port city on the Pearl river delta, bordering the islands of Hong Kong and Macau. In the 19^th century, opium trade started through the Guangzhou port, opening an era of foreign incursions into China. Macau became a Portuguese colony, Hong Kong was conquered by the British, and Kwang-Chou-Wan ceded to the French. In the second world-war, Japanese troops severely bombed and occupied Guangzhou. The imperial Japanese army doctors experimented on human prisoners. Having endured these invasions, the city bounced back with the determination and the work ethic Chinese are known for, and rose dramatically to an extraordinary eminence.

Guangzhou is the capital of the Guangdong province. Guang in Cantonese means "vast", and Dong means "East" so the province is a vast expanse in the East. Guangdong’s GDP increased from $4 billion in 1980 to nearly $1 trillion by 2012, representing a 25,000% increase over three decades, making it the richest province with the most billionaires in mainland China. 

As you look past the shopping malls, the metro, the bullet train and step beyond the impressive skyline of the Zhujiang new town where most of Guangzhou’s expats live, the city slowly starts to reveal its culture. As an Indian, I found great similarities between ‘Mumbai’ and ‘Guangzhou’. Just as the citizens of ‘Mumbai’ restored its original name from ‘Bombay’ since the latter had the undertones of ‘The British Raj’, citizens of ‘Guangzhou’ insist on using the transliterated original Chinese name, rather than the colonial name of the city – ‘Canton’.

Although majority of the local population speaks ‘Cantonese’, due to the influx in the last three decades of millions of ‘Mandarin’ speaking domestic immigrants, the dominance of Cantonese has diminished. This is just like the invasion of ‘Gujarati’ and ‘Hindi’ communities in the ‘Marathi’ speaking Mumbai, the capital city of the Indian state of Maharashtra.

When I visited Guangzhou, the city was gearing up to celebrate the Chinese new year, a two week holiday with traditional food and family gatherings. This is the time people leave to visit their hometown or go on vacation, just like 'Diwali' in India. And just like Diwali, there are fireworks to scare off the evil. The loudest and longest displays are on the 1^st and 15^th days. Fireworks are not organized and regulated like the firework shows in London on the Guy Fawkes Night or on 31^st December. It’s more like India where anyone with a few Yuan in his pocket can light them wherever and whenever they like. On the 15^th day, there is a lantern festival where paper lanterns are hung and lit to welcome and guide the new, good spirits into your life. Again, I found this remarkably similar to the ‘Akash Kandils’ during Diwali in India. Here is the Chinese and Indian comparison (respectively) in pictures.

Every day of the new year holiday has a special significance and a different traditional food. People clean their homes before the new year, purchase new clothes and shoes – clearing out the old and making way for the symbolic new. The 1^st day is the welcome of the deities of the heavens and earth, beginning at midnight. Its traditional to light fireworks, burn bamboo sticks and to make as much of a din as possible to chase off the evil spirit of Nian. (I find this tradition similar to the Indian festival of Holi – especially the fire and making noise.) This is also the day Chinese honor their elders. Families visit the oldest and most senior members of their extended families, parents, grandparents and great-grandparents. Elder members of the family give red envelopes containing cash, as blessings to suppress the aging and challenges in the coming year, to junior members of the family. Business managers give bonuses through red packets to employees.

On the 2^nd day, married daughters visit their parents, relatives and close friends. Some celebrate this as the birthday of all dogs and remember them with special treats. The 5^th day is the god of wealth's birthday and people shoot off firecrackers to get Guan Yu's attention, thus ensuring his favor and good fortune. (This is just like the 'Laxmi Pooja' prayer of the god of wealth during Diwali.) The 7^th day is known as Renri - the day when everyone grows one year older. For Chinese Buddhists, this is a day to avoid meat commemorating the birth of Sakra, lord of the devas. On the 8^th day, employers host a party for their employees, thanking them for the work they have done for the whole year.

The legend has it that on the 9^th day, Hokkien Chinese were spared from a massacre by Japanese pirates by hiding in a sugarcane plantation. Since sugarcane literally means thank you in the Hokkien dialect, Hokkiens offer sugarcane to each other, symbolic of their gratitude. (The concept is similar to the Indian festival of 'Makar Sankanti' where you offer sesame seeds and jaggery known as ‘til-gul’). On the 13^th day, people eat vegetarian food to cleanse themselves after two weeks of partying. This is the day of the Chinese God of War who represents loyalty, strength, truth, and justice. On the 15^th day, people eat traditional rice dumplings (tangyuan) – a sweet rice ball brewed in a soup. Candles are lit outside houses as a way to guide wayward spirits home. Families walk the streets carrying lighted lanterns.

Talking of not so nice examples of some Indian and Chinese similarities, I saw Chinese people spit on the street. This is sometimes accompanied with stomach-churning throat retching. I saw children go to the toilet in the streets with no shame. By the way, they don’t have western toilets in China. Most toilets are the ‘squatter style’, which doesn’t unnerve someone like me who grew up in India but as you can imagine, requires a lot of getting used to, for the average Westerner. Around Zhujiang or Tianhe districts, in any restaurant or bar hoping for Western clientele, you will find Western style toilets. Mosquitoes in Guangzhou are an unavoidable and a highly uncomfortable part of the visit. They seem to hone onto new, foreign flesh with relish. They are tiny so you don’t feel them, until you feel the throbbing and itching mounds they leave behind. The worst time is obviously the sweltering humid summer months and especially at night. (another Indian similarity!)

Taxis in Guangzhou are numerous and cheap. Every taxi has a tiny printer that chugs the receipt out at the end of the ride. You should always take the receipt or ‘fapiao’. That way, you have the identification of the taxi, which in a large city is absolutely vital. One of my British colleagues once forgot his laptop bag in his taxi. Using the fapiao, within 15 minutes our hotel concierge called the taxi company and the laptop was returned. The other care to take is, while crossing the road. An average Chinese driver does not respect pedestrians, even at clearly marked pedestrian crossing. (yet another Indian similarity!)

By the way, you must always carry with you a piece of paper with your destination written in Chinese characters. At the Guangzhou airport, I tried to tell the cab driver to take us to the Hilton Baiyun hotel. Baiyun is a district in the North of Guangzhou named after the famous Baiyun mountains and Hilton is of course Hilton – a major international hotel chain. He didn't understand anything. What I came to know later, is that Cantonese people refer to "Hilton" as "Seeitan". Just like "Coke" in Cantonese is pronounced as "Kha Kha Kha La" (Chinese version of Coca Cola). Here is a picture of the Hilton Baiyun.

Cantonese is a hard language to learn, when you take into account different tones which can completely change the meaning of a word and the thousands of Chinese characters which are hard to remember. For example the word Tsat which means number 7, if mispronounced can mean “ugly”, “shameful” or a “boner” and Gau which means number 9, if mispronounced can mean “dog”, “dumbass” and other bleep-censored vulgar meanings. So you never want to stay in a hotel room with either a ‘7’ or a ‘9’ in the room number – and you certainly wouldn’t want to risk calling the room service from that room!

Living in Guangzhou converts most seasoned meat eaters overnight into Vegetarians. The Chinese eat anything that swims, crawls, wriggles, walks and flies. They eat it mostly after the animal has stopped moving but that is not always necessary.(!) Seeing turtles served from an icebox at a local football game confirms this. The western way of eating meat in a nice cellophane packaging with pretty pictures is not the norm here. The first test is traveling into town and seeing pigs and ducks packed tightly in a poorly maintained van, rocking and reeling as it cruises down the highway. That ruins your appetite. The next test is when you visit the local fresh produce market. Here you will find chickens squawking angrily, feathers flying; turtles in bubbling baths nodding their heads sadly; and shallow tubs crammed full of gulping fish in the process of dying. Some of the sites are too graphic than I care to describe in this blog but the whole cruelty of killing unfolds right in your face. There are the markets with bowls of insects, deep fried and freshly stir-fried; piles of dried and desiccated carcasses you would never want to see; fish head soup; entire glazed ducks hanging in restaurant windows. I am a vegetarian by choice. By my otherwise carnivore colleagues, also gagged at these scenes.

The Guangzhou metro is efficient, clean, well connected to all the main parts of the city, including the airport, key train and bus stations. The system is easy to use, with its simple ticket machines and English announcements. Its really inexpensive, just 40 Yuan to travel for a couple of hours. Travel at off-peak times, and you should have no problem getting around the city. However, at rush hour times, weekends and big sporting events, the Metro is as bad as the Mumbai local trains. As the doors open, masses of people push off the train while an equal, sometimes greater, mass of people push on. There is no distinction made for the elderly or children. It is an unmannerly survival of the fittest in which bodies bounce off bodies. It is shockingly physical with indifferent elbows and fists pushing into your back. Most Westerners find this completely unnerving. However, I found myself quickly recalling my old acquired skills of boarding Mumbai rush hour local trains.

From the south Guangzhou railway station, I went to Shenzhen on the famous bullet train that runs at 305 km/hour. I must admit that station is better than most international airport terminals and is absolutely massive. 

The only problem is, not all documentation is in English. I have no idea what this arrow meant but I followed it anyway to board my train. 

The only familiar thing was this fast food chain shop with “Bruce Lee” as its logo. There are fewer McDonalds and KFCs then the Western media lead you to believe. Starbucks is the most prevalent American chain, with over a thousand branches in China. But be prepared to enunciate the word “tall” very clearly in Starbucks as to Chinese people it sounds like “two” and it can result in unexpected extra coffees.

In conclusion, let me share another Indian and Chinese similarity. Chinese names have a meaning, significance, layers of family history and parental expectations (like Indian names). You are not just given a random Chinese name. Most Westerners get given a name either because their parents like it, or it was inherited from an older family member. Most of my Chinese colleagues and clients also have another English name. My Chinese friends tell me that this is to make it easier to communicate with a Westerner. Likewise, if as an expat you wish to live locally, you are encouraged to adopt a Chinese name. Next time I go to China, I intend to acquire a Chinese name. So please don’t be alarmed if I sign off my next blog as Shen Wong!

by Sachin Kulkarni, London. 8^th March 2014

The smart city of Shanghai

The smart city of Shanghai

As our Cathay Pacific jet touched down at the Pudong International airport, the Shanghainese were returning from their Chinese New Year holidays and the mood was upbeat. 2014 is the year of the ‘Horse’. Bright red and gold lanterns were dangling from every perch available. Little orange trees were decorated with red envelops. The scent of citrus and bright colors added a promise of spring to the air. 

The horse in all its majestic glory promises optimism, energy, and beauty. The dragon and horse are auspicious Chinese symbols. Symbols of leadership and outstanding individuals. So 2014 is expected to be a good year and like a swift, galloping, horse, things will happen fast in 2014. But more specifically, the future depends on what animal you are, which depends on your birth year. I’m a pig so 2014 will be a good year for me. Apparently my relatives and cooperators will help me and I will have great achievements in career. I will have to work hard, but will get praise and will be promoted in position and capability. Time will tell I guess…

Whereas Beijing comes across as a typical traditional political capital, Shanghai, the economic capital of China is certainly a lot more cosmopolitan, modern and much more Westernised. Located in the delta of the mighty Yangtze River, roughly equidistant to Beijing and Hong Kong, Shanghai has grown from a small market town in imperial China to a 21^st century megalopolis. Shanghai has an amazing number of skyways to avoid traffic congestion. It is eye opening to see the infrastructure that operates a city of 24 million residents.

From the airport, I took the famous Maglev train to Langyong Road station which is effectively downtown Pudong. The train goes at 430 Kilometers per hour and the journey of 30 kilometers is covered in less than 8 minutes. Back in London, our BR (British Rail) including the Eurostar doesn’t go anywhere near that speed, our British weather problems notwithstanding. And I thought I was coming from one of the developed countries...

    

From Langyong, with a brief ‘ni hao’ and a Mandarin address of the JW Marriott printed on a piece of paper, I got into my taxi. Keeping an eye on the JW Marriott tower which I had located beforehand, I got in. As a typical foreigner who doesn’t speak the local language, I was insecure about the taxi giving me a ride longer than necessary. So as we drew close, I uttered one of the very few Chinese sentences I knew, “women yijing dadao” which meant “we have reached.” Surprisingly, my taxi driver actually understood what I said, but to my dismay started a conversation in Mandarin. I had no clue what he said for another 10 minutes before we actually reached the building. I exited with a sheepish “xie xie” taking the “fapiao” (i.e. the receipt).

Now that I was in familiar territory, I walked in with the confidence of a seasoned international traveler, expecting to be in the lobby where I would stand in the queue to check into my room. Instead, a Chinese lady politely told me to take the lift to the 38^th floor where the lobby was. On the 38^th, a concierge was waiting for me to show me to my room on the 54^th floor with an amazing view of the Shanghai skyline. After we got in the room, I was still wondering as to how and when I would actually check in. Once she made sure I was happy and comfortable with the room, the concierge asked for my passport and credit card. Then she simply took a pen out of her breast pocket, scanned both, (obviously with an OCR) and declared I was checked-in! In any European city, the whole process including standing in a queue would have easily taken 20 minutes?

Huang Pu river runs north to south dividing Shanghai into Pudong (Dong means East) and Puxi (Xi means West) and then meanders west. In the early 20^th century, thousands of lǎowài (foreigners) were working in Shanghai controlled by colonial powers. Today, as Shanghai spearheads China’s rapidly growing and expanding economy, once again, it is attracting foreigners, who want to move their career forward. The entire district of Pudong, where over a million expats work, was declared a Special Economic Region in 1993. The Lùjiāzuǐ Finance and Trade Zone and the Zhangjiang Hi-Tech Park are located in Pudong. The traditional industries of Shanghai were ship building, steel and auto manufacturing. However, increasingly, new investors are focusing on growth in financial services and high tech industry. It suddenly occurred to me that the appeal that Shanghai represents today was probably what attracted foreigners to New York or LA 30 years ago. The famous American dream is now being replaced by the Chinese dream! That's what these guys are here for…

Shanghai’s status as a boomtown is now so powerful that in 2010, Hong Kong, its biggest rival, began working on an updated image campaign. Hong Kong promotes its reputation as a financial center that focuses on international asset management and offshore trading. From this “location branding”, it is evident Hong Kong is concerned enough with Shanghai’s development to consider the expense and effort worth it.

In my office the next day, I was given a warm welcome. Our General Managers Bo Chen and George Wong were Shanghainese with local political connections. This is very important for a multinational to do business locally. Overseeing the GMs though were some British and European execs though, which is typical of most multinationals.

I sat in a conference room looking through the glass, watching over a hundred software developers frozen in front of their computers. They were furiously typing at their keyboards, engrossed in their work. Their little eyelids looked almost closed as they stared their monitors. There were no heated debates, no exciting arguments, no visible brainstorming that you’d see in a typical IT development shop. Then all of a sudden, a lovely girl in her early twenties got up from her seat. She did that famous "Shanghai ki angdai" and then switched on some music. It sounded like pop music of the eighties but with Chinese lyrics. The whole crowd relaxed, got up, some poured tea and coffee, some took a comfort break, some started dancing by their desks.

Now I felt normal. Now they were just another bunch of engineers enjoying themselves in a nice corporate office having a break. About ten minutes later, the music stopped and within the next minute, all of them froze in front of their computers, their eyelids almost shut. I couldn't believe such discipline existed in an IT shop. I noticed that there was a good gender balance, certainly better than the UK or USA.

After work, with the help of my colleagues I picked up some instrumental “Erhu” Chinese music from the local street shops.

Although people living in Shanghai benefit from an extensive and fairly cheap public transport system, I found it confusing, particularly since all the documentation is in Chinese. Shanghai has over 1,000 different bus lines run by several companies. They are extremely crowded especially during rush hour. However, you soon get the hang of the mostly numerical bus system. Lines 300-399, are all night buses and 700-799 have their routes in suburban areas. Buses are air-conditioned and a ticket costs just 2 Yuan.

Later in the evening we went for dinner in the business district of Luziahui area to the 88 storied Jin Mao tower overlooking the Huang Pu river. We were on level 55 at the Canton restaurant, which offers traditional Cantonese cuisine and 360 degree views of the impressive city skyline. The dining area is contemporary, featuring gold leaf glass dividers etched with Chinese. The flooring is designed in a Chinese pattern, combining granite, wood and brass. Authentic Chinese food was served in silver bowls, chinaware and cherry wood silver-tipped chopsticks and silver spoons. Tea was served in the traditional ceremony, in porcelain glasses with brown porcelain teapots.

Jin Mao tower out-talled the iconic Oriental Pearl tower redefining Shanghai's skyline. But her triumph didn’t last long. The Shanghai World financial center, 100 storied with a giant window in the sky soaring 474 meters, now looks down on Jin Mao. Of course that feat did not last long either, since the new Shanghai Tower under construction is already taller. Upon its completion later this year, it will stand 632 metres with 121 stories. Its now the 2^nd tallest building in the world, surpassed only by the Burj Khalifa in Dubai. Of course that will change too when Changsha's planned Sky City, is complete it will reach 838m overtaking the Burj Khalifa in height!

Amidst all this mind boggling growth of 'mine is taller than yours', as China’s industrial and financial center, Shanghai is struggling with the problems, typical of other Chinese megacities – smog, water pollution, noise, over population, traffic jams and a housing shortage. The city glow in Pudong is so high, that sometimes the sky looks a yellowish orange. I felt like I was on Mars like in the Schwarzenegger science fiction movie ‘Total Recall’. The other problem of course is stress. Its more than the usual stress of working in a highly competitive, busy city. Its exacerbated by the fact that China strictly follows the single child rule. That means there are six elders (parents and two sets of grandparents) in the family who have their hopes pinned on a single kid. It is quite stressful. Kids mature too quickly under that stress. And the environment is very competitive. The biggest crime in China, is apparently kidnapping of babies

On the last day, I took some time off to see an amazing glimpse into the future of Shanghai in the Shanghai Urban Planning Museum. On level 3, there is an awe-inspiring scale model of urban Shanghai as it will look in 2020. This giant replica of the city is observed from a large platform around and above the model.  It is full of skyscrapers that appear to stretch for miles and miles in all directions.  There are patches of green throughout symbolizing existing parks and plastic models of structures yet to be built. It clearly articulates the city planning leaders’ intent for Shanghai – to be dynamic, livable and prosperous. It’s a stunning, visionary master plan.

In the last 30 years China has risen to the 2^nd largest economy in the world. It has lifted 650 million of its citizens out of poverty into the middle class. In less than a decade, China will pass the USA to become the largest economy. In the recent U.N. World Tourism Organization announcement that 83 million mainland Chinese spent $102 billion abroad in 2013, passing Americans and making them the biggest tourism spenders in the world. All that powered by the economic policies of a one-party, communist government. Shanghai was in ruins after Japan bombed them in 1937. Look at what they've achieved 70 years later. I felt it’s all about how big can you dream… I left Shanghai in awe as I boarded for London with a single resolve in my mind. I have got to get my daughter to learn Mandarin!

by Sachin Kulkarni, London. 2^nd March 2014.